Learning how to prepare bánh bò hấp, in Vietnam

My husband, John, and I live in upstate New York, and most of the

retired people in our area are “snowbirds,” who head south to spend the winter in warmer, snow-free states. John and I head all the way to Asia for three months. We find Asia reasonable, cost-wise, and enjoy the diversity of cultures. We like the flexibility of wintering for a few weeks each in several countries.

In January 2016 we were in Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC), Vietnam. We had been there several times but wanted to revisit the Cao Đài Temple and the Củ Chi Tunnels. The Cao Đài Temple is the center of the Caodaist church, an indigenous religion that incorporates the teachings of many religions. The first time we visited the temple was in 1998. It was as colorful as I remembered. 



The biggest change was at the Củ Chi Tunnels. The part of the

tunnel that we visited in ’98 is now open only to Vietnamese, whereas the new area has been made handicapped-accessible, with visitors entering via a gift shop. Also, other activities have been added, such as a rifle range. 

We wanted a hotel in HCMC close to the airport, so we booked a few days at the Parkroyal Saigon. A standard room cost $88 a night, but we upgraded to an Orchid Club room at $137. The Orchid Club room price included airport/hotel transfers, breakfast, afternoon tea and evening cocktails plus laundry for up to four garments per day. A great deal! We liked the relaxing atmosphere in the Orchid Club Lounge, especially during afternoon tea, when there was an assortment of tea sandwiches. 

We commented to the waitress that the most common dessert

in Vietnam was fresh fruit but seldom cakes or pies. She said that many Vietnamese don’t have ovens. Also, they don’t have a “sweet tooth.” She told us that her favorite dessert is bánh bò hấp, which she said are also called “cow cakes” because the word bò means “cow.” She said her mother told her the word bò also means “crawl” because when the cakes are steamed, they “crawl” up the side of the pan.

Later we had an opportunity to try this dessert. We reported back to our waitress that we loved the light and tasty “cow cakes” and thought they looked simple to make. She said she was sure the pastry chef would love to show us how to make them. The next day, pastry chef Nguyen Thanh Ngoan and his helper Nguyen Thu Nhi showed us how they are made. I found out it was not as simple as I had thought!

Bánh Bò Hấp (Vietnamese Rice Cakes)

1 ¾ cup rice flour 

3 tbsp corn flour (or tapioca flour)

2 tbsp rice wine

1/3 cup coconut water

½ tsp salt

1 cup water

2 cups sugar

optional — food coloring

Sesame Sprinkle

1 tbsp sesame seeds

2 tsp sugar

dash of salt

Coconut Sauce

1 tbsp rice flour

1 tbsp water

1 ¾ cups coconut milk

3 tbsp sugar

For the Bánh Bò Hấp, 12 hours ahead of time, mix rice flour and corn flour and set it aside. In a small pan, add rice wine, coconut water and salt and bring to a boil. Cool for five minutes, then add it to the flour mix and stir until smooth. A drop of food coloring can be added, if desired. Strain if lumpy. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside (not in the refrigerator) for 12 hours.  After the 12 hours, combine water and sugar in a medium pan and bring to a boil. Boil just until the sugar is dissolved, then cool for five minutes. Stir into the mix made 12 hours before. In a steamer, heat water to the boiling point. Brush small dishes or forms with oil and place in a steamer. Cover and steam for two minutes. Ladle batter into the dishes or forms, then cover. Steam for seven minutes or more, depending on the sizes of the dishes. When the center of each cake rises, remove from steamer. Repeat with any remaining batter.

To make the Sesame Sprinkle, place sesame seeds in a pan at medium heat. Toast until light brown. Set aside. When cool, add sugar and a dash of salt, and stir. 

To make the Coconut Sauce, mix rice flour and water in a sauce pan. Add coconut milk and bring to a boil. Cook for a few minutes, slowly stirring until it's the consistency of cream. Remove from heat and stir in sugar to taste. Strain the mixture to eliminate any lumps. 

Plate each cake, sprinkle with the sesame seed mix, top with dollops of coconut sauce and serve. 

NB: If the steamer has a metal lid, remove any water off the lid to prevent water from dripping onto the cakes. Cakes can be made ahead and refrigerated but should be steamed again for one minute before serving.